The Science Behind Dissolving Microneedles

How Transdermal Drug Delivery Became the Future of Precision Skincare

Dissolving microneedles are often described as a beauty innovation.

In reality, they are the result of over two decades of pharmaceutical and biomedical research.

Long before microneedles appeared in skincare, they were developed as transdermal drug-delivery systems—designed to deliver active compounds safely, precisely, and efficiently through the skin.

At Moonshot Labs, microneedles are not a trend.

They are applied delivery science.

This article explains how dissolving microneedles work, why they are scientifically credible, and how pharmaceutical research shaped the technology now used in advanced skincare.

Why Traditional Topicals Struggle to Work

The skin is not designed to let things in.

Its outermost layer—the stratum corneum—is an exceptionally effective barrier.

According to dermatological research, fewer than 5% of topical ingredients penetrate deeply enough to influence skin biology.

This is why:

• Many actives sit on the surface
• Higher concentrations don't always mean better results
• Delivery, not formulation alone, limits efficacy

This challenge is well documented in transdermal research literature, including reviews published in Advanced Drug Delivery Reviews and Nature Reviews Drug Discovery.

The Origin of Microneedle Technology

Microneedles were originally developed to solve a medical problem:

How do you deliver drugs through the skin without pain, injections, or systemic exposure?

Early research—supported by institutions such as the U.S. National Institutes of Health (NIH)—focused on:

• Vaccine delivery
• Insulin and peptide transport
• Controlled release of biologics

The result was the development of micron-scale needles capable of bypassing the stratum corneum without reaching nerves or blood vessels.

What Are Dissolving Microneedles?

Dissolving microneedles are solid microstructures made from biocompatible, water-soluble materials.

Unlike metal or silicon microneedles used in medical devices, dissolving microneedles:

• Enter the upper skin layers
• Dissolve completely upon contact with interstitial fluid
• Leave no sharp waste
• Deliver their payload directly into the skin

This class of microneedles has been extensively studied in journals such as:

• Journal of Controlled Release
• Advanced Functional Materials
• Pharmaceutics

How Dissolving Microneedles Work (Step by Step)

1. Mechanical Bypass of the Skin Barrier

Microneedles physically cross the stratum corneum—something topical creams cannot reliably do.

This mechanism is mechanical, not chemical, which is why it does not depend on penetration enhancers that may irritate skin.

2. Controlled Dissolution

Once inserted, microneedles dissolve gradually as they absorb moisture from the skin.

This allows:

• Precise dose delivery
• Localized action
• Minimal systemic absorption

Pharmaceutical studies consistently show this improves bioavailability while reducing side effects.

3. Localized Delivery Where Biology Happens

The actives are released into the viable epidermis or upper dermis—where:

• Collagen signaling occurs
• Hydration regulation is controlled
• Cellular repair pathways are activated

This principle is foundational in transdermal drug-delivery research.

Why Dissolving Microneedles Are Considered Safe

Safety is not an assumption—it is the reason dissolving microneedles were developed.

According to peer-reviewed medical literature:

• They do not reach nerve endings
• They do not cause bleeding
• They dissolve fully, eliminating needle retention risk
• They reduce infection risk compared to traditional injections

These characteristics are why dissolving microneedles have been explored for vaccines and biologics, not just cosmetics.

Drug Delivery vs Skincare: Same Science, Different Application

The underlying science is identical.

The difference lies in:

• Payload (drugs vs cosmetic actives)
• Dose
• Regulatory classification

In skincare applications, dissolving microneedles are used to:

• Improve delivery efficiency
• Reduce ingredient waste
• Achieve visible results at lower concentrations

This is why modern microneedle patches often outperform high-strength creams without increasing irritation.

Why Delivery Matters More Than Concentration

Increasing concentration does not guarantee penetration.

Drug-delivery research consistently shows that:

• Poorly delivered actives ≠ effective actives
• Targeted delivery allows lower doses to work better
• Precision reduces unnecessary skin exposure

Microneedles solve this by moving actives to where they are biologically relevant.

The Moonshot Labs Application

At Moonshot Labs, microneedle technology is treated as delivery infrastructure, not a gimmick.

Our approach reflects pharmaceutical principles:

• Biocompatible dissolving structures
• Zone-specific design (forehead, lips, localized concerns)
• Skin-first engineering over aggressive intervention

This philosophy aligns with how microneedles were originally designed:

to work with the body, not overpower it.

What Dissolving Microneedles Are Not

To remain scientifically accurate, it's important to clarify what dissolving microneedles do not do:

• They do not inject substances into muscle
• They do not freeze facial movement
• They do not replace medical procedures
• They do not force results overnight

They optimize delivery, which allows skin to perform better over time.

The Future of Microneedle Technology

According to ongoing research in biomedical engineering:

• Microneedles are expanding into vaccines, hormones, and biologics
• Personalized, localized delivery is a growing focus
• Cosmetic applications are following pharmaceutical innovation—not leading it

This places dissolving microneedles among the most credible science-backed skincare technologies available today.

The Moonshot Perspective

Dissolving microneedles are not about doing more to the skin.

They are about doing things more intelligently.

When delivery is precise:

• Skin needs less intervention
• Actives work harder
• Results are earned, not forced

That is the alchemy—where pharmaceutical science becomes modern skincare.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are dissolving microneedles scientifically proven?

Yes. Dissolving microneedles are supported by decades of peer-reviewed research in transdermal drug delivery and biomedical engineering.

Are dissolving microneedles safe for skin?

Yes. Studies show they dissolve completely, do not reach nerves or blood vessels, and have a strong safety profile when properly designed.

Why do microneedles work better than creams?

Because they bypass the stratum corneum, delivering actives directly into skin layers where biological processes occur.